Durian
The durian is a contradiction in terms. Spiky on the outside and silky on the inside, the controversial fruit is typically greeted with adoration and revulsion in equal parts. It is at once an icon of Southeast Asia and a local oddity for visitors to the region. The giant, pungent fruit is lauded for its medicinal quality, and yet banned from public transport across Asia. So what is it about the ‘king of fruits’ that produces such a divisive response?
Native to Southeast Asia, the durian can grow to up to 30cm long and 15cm wide. Inside its greenish, spike-covered shell hides its edible yellow flesh. Its unique taste evades description; it has been compared to everything from toasted almonds to old socks and onions. The texture too is rarely found in fruit – it’s rich and creamy, incredibly smooth and glutinous. Love it or hate it: you certainly won’t forget it.
However, it’s the pungent, lingering smell that makes durians so infamous. A 2012 scientific study attempted to deconstruct the smell of a Thai durian, and found that it was an intoxicating blend of 50 compounds including fruity, skunky, rubbery, garlic, cheese, onion and honey smells – as well as four compounds as yet unknown to science. The test results suddenly made the strict durian ban on most Southeast Asian subways suddenly seem less harsh.
Cambodia, like many other nations in the region, in in love with the durian. Kampot, a small southern river town known for its durian production, pays homage with a giant stone statue of the controversial fruit raised on a plinth and positioned in the center of a roundabout, imperially greeting visitors. Down the street, vendors crowd the local market, selling the real thing to hungry durian pilgrims.
Kampot’s native durians are known throughout the country for their browner shell, sweet taste and soft texture, and can cost over twice as much as those imported from Thailand or Vietnam. Harvested between May and July, their high price means that durian farming is a lucrative profession, but - in typical contrary durian style - also a dangerous one. Durian trees can grow up to 50m high, and fruit is not harvested until it drops from the tree. Taking a casual stroll in the durian orchard without a hardhat would be a very risky move indeed.
Selecting a durian for purchase is a serious business in Cambodia. A thick stem is a sign of freshness, while fans of the more pungent mature durian should shake the fruit and listen for sounds of seeds rattling around. While Cambodians usually eat the durian fresh, there are also popular local desserts that feature the fruit in a starring role.
‘Bay dom nerb duren’ is sticky rice with durian paste. Hand-pushed carts selling durian ice-cream popsicles are also a common sight, as are durian crackers, durian moon cakes, and durian milkshakes. The fruit is everywhere, so there’s no excuse: whether a long-time lover or first-time taster, trying the local durian and getting to grips with its intoxicating flavours is an absolute culinary must.
