Cambodian Spirit Houses
They are everywhere in Cambodia, sitting in front of wooden, stilted houses in the countryside or embellishing the front area of apartment buildings in Phnom Penh. They are colorful, eye-catchingly beautiful, and come in a multitude of forms and styles. We are talking, of course, about spirit houses.
Generally speaking, spirit houses, or ‘pteah preah phumi’ in Khmer, are shrines to the protective spirit of a place. They are not unique to the Kingdom of Cambodia. We can find them in other countries in Southeast Asia, specifically in Burma, Laos and Thailand.
In Cambodia, most houses and businesses have a spirit house placed in an auspicious spot, most often in a corner of the property. They most commonly take the form of a miniature house or a tiny temple, commonly mounted on a pillar or on a dais. Spirit houses range from simple bamboo structures costing less than a few dozen dollars to elaborate edifices commanding prices as high as $5,000.
The answer to the question of who lives in them or, for that matter, what’s their purpose, varies depending on the region. Many assert that these little structures are the abode of spirits and Gods, serving the fundamental task of keeping these supernatural beings happy and comfortable. In exchange, the benevolent spirits keep the human dwellers of the house out of harm’s way, and out of the reach of evil spirits. It’s a mutually-beneficial relation: people build the spirit house to accommodate the Gods, and these, in exchange, keep the humans safe under their wing.
Another function of these beautiful little structures, more in the Buddhist tradition, is to show respect to the recently departed. Buddhists believe that leaving offerings at the spirit houses grants luck in the next life for the recently deceased, who are awaiting reincarnation in the underworld. The gesture is not entirely selfless: devotees believe that they are giving themselves good luck as well. Offerings include flower garlands, food—such as rice, fruits, and Khmer cakes—and incense sticks.
In the more remote parts of Cambodia, some tribes believe that plants and animals have spirits. For them the spirit house plays a much more significant role in everyday life. According to their beliefs, the recently departed must exist as spirits in the forests until they are reincarnated. These minorities take great care in keeping this forest-dwelling spirits happy: they place offerings on the spirit houses on a daily basis.
There is one last function that the spirit houses fulfill in this day and age. They are an ornament, a decorative object meant to beautify your yard and attract the admiration of neighbours and those passing by.
In very broad terms, spirit house can be divided into two categories. The term ‘neak ta’ refers to those built for and by the community. Their role is communal, as they are meant to attract good luck for all the neighbours, and keep spirits that threaten the community at bay. The spirit houses for an individual family are generally known as ‘tevada’, and are the ones you are more likely to see in your stroll through Phnom Penh or Siem Reap.
Walking around Phnom Penh, you will most certainly run into your standard, readymade spirit house: a small gilded temple sitting atop a dais. But if you venture into the Cambodian countryside you will be surprised at the sheer number of variations that the spirit houses can adopt: a simple bamboo pole split at the top to receive offerings and decorated with ribbons or a few stones lying in the ground are some of the simpler ones.
Experts generally agree that the practice of building spirit houses predates Angkorean times (802–1431), and that it existed back then as an expression of animism. Spirit houses most likely played a very important role for the people of this era. Some scholars say they were seen as a source of advice and assistance in times of trouble. They were thought to possess magical qualities: they could alter the weather, cure illness, and help find lost objects. They were an important part of the judicial system: suspects were required to swear an oath in front of the spirit house.
While the spirit house no longer has such a wide-ranging role in the community they are still respected and required, and have led to a thriving industry. On your way from the airport to the centre of Phnom Penh, you will undoubtedly pass dozens of small and medium-sized workshops specialising in this ornamental and devotional object, with hundreds of spirit houses of all sizes neatly lined-up in the front yard of this establishments.
Being such a representative part of Cambodian culture, make sure you take a picture in front of a spirit houses during your trip to the Kingdom. It will be a memory you will treasure forever.
