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Kirirom National Park


While submerged in Phnom Penh’s fast-developing buzz, rural Cambodia’s slow-paced lifestyle can seem like it’s a world away. However, just a two-hour drive southwest of the city sits Kirirom National Park, home to some of Cambodia’s lushest pine forests, secluded waterfalls and cliffs.

Christened Kirirom (meaning ‘Happy Mountain’) by King Monivong in the 1930s, the gorgeously scenic, clean-aired area was also Cambodia’s first national park. In the 1960s, it was a favourite retreat among Cambodia’s wealthy elite – including King Sihanouk – due to its proximity to the capital and abundant natural beauty.

There’s plenty of on-foot exploring to be done in this rural stretch of land. The two-hour hike up to Phnom Dat Chivit is a particular highlight, though you will need a guide. After passing through the pine glades - home to many rare birds, deer and porcupine - trekkers will reach an abrupt cliff face with sweeping panoramic views of the park’s mountain ranges.

For a shorter journey, visitors only need to stray 700 metres from the main road to find the Tea Farm Waterfall. Surrounded by bamboo picnic huts, it’s a great spot to take a packed lunch and cool down next to the gentle waterfall. The nearby tea farm is open to visitors who are curious about the local brews.

Kirirom certainly offers diverse attractions. The park holds a forest single-track bike path, which hosts an annual mountain bike race. Meanwhile, animal lovers can spot wild ox, elephants and even leopards in the far reaches of the park.

There are two main sleeping options in Kirirom. For a more luxurious base from which to explore the park, the Kirirom Hillside Resort comes complete with a swimming pool, sauna, fitness room and a rather unusual dinosaur park. The family activities include horse riding, canoeing and tennis.

A cheaper option is to stay at the Chambok Ecotourism Site, a community of nine rural villages, which focuses on providing sustainable eco-friendly employment for the local community. There you will be integrated with the people of Kirirom, staying in a homestay and having the option of breakfast and lunch cooked with fresh native produce at bargain prices at the women-run restaurant. Chambok arranges, amongst other things, trekking, swimming, ox-cart rides and cooking classes for guests, and has a list of set itineraries.

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